WHO CAME FIRST: THE ETRUSCANS OR THE JEWS?

CONTENTS:

(1) THE MYSTERIOUS ETRUSCANS

(2) ETRUSCAN CITY OF THE DEAD

Giorgio Bassani's Garden of the Finzi-Continis (1957, first edition)

(1) THE MYSTERIOUS ETRUSCANS

"The Etruscans are at the very beginning of the history book, right near the Egyptians and the Jews."

"But tell me, Dad! Who do you think are older?"

"The Etruscans or the Jews?”

Giorgio Bassani, The Garden of the Finzi Continis

(Translation: Isabel Quigley)

An aerial view of the Etruscan Necropolis of Cerveteri, showing rounded tumuli, above, and rows of rectilinear chamber tombs, below.

Giannina, a nine year-old Roman girl, asks this seemingly ingenuous question in the opening paragraphs of Bassani’s great novel, The Garden of the Finzi Contini.

They are on a Sunday jaunt to the Etruscan Necropolis at Cerveteri, barely an hour’s drive from the city.  

But Bassani's book is about Jews, not Etruscans. And Giannina's query triggers a flashback in the author’s mind— transporting him to the Jewish cemetery in his hometown of Ferrara.

Then Bassani's real story begins, narrating the weirdly idyllic last days of a coterie of fellow Ferrarese Jews— destined to perish in Auschwitz.

Cubic tombs at Cerveteri, locally known as "tombe a dado" ("dice-style tombs"). (Photo Lyle Goldberg)
The Jewish Cemetery in Ferrara.
A tomb in the style of an Etruscan ossuary from the old Jewish Cemetery in Florence. (Photo Lyle Goldberg)

The Etruscans were a distinct people with their own language and culture, famed for their wealth and their luxurious way of life.

They dominated much of Central Italy (and beyond) for hundreds of years (from the 8th through the 4th centuries, B.C.) Then they gradually adopted the Latin language and Roman ways, losing their identity as a unique society.

For Giorgio Bassani back in the 1950s (when the famous excursion to Cerveteri took place), the "real Etruscans" were largely beside the point.

For him, they evoked an incalculable past— outside time and conventional history. (In Giannina's school book, the Italian national narrative evidently begins with the Romans.)

A Modern Map of the Etruscan Homeland, extending from Fiesole (north of Florence) to Cerveteri (north of Rome). It leaves out important Etruscan settlements farther north in the Emilia Romagna (including Marabotto and Spina) and south in Campania (Capua and Benevento).

When we hear the word "Etruscan", the first adjective that comes to mind is usually "mysterious". And why is that?

Most immediately, we react to the haunting glamour of a "vanished people"... But Etruria isn't Atlantis and the Etruscans never  "vanished" at all.

They were absorbed into the present-day Italian population —and in some places, they allegedly dominate the local gene pool.

In gold , bilingual Phoenician / Etruscan tablets from Pyrgi, in the territory of Cerveteri ("Caere", as it was known), commemorating the dedication of a temple. Discovered in 1964, these were essential to decoding the Etruscan language. (Museo di Villa Giulia, Rome)

Then there is the odd and elusive Etruscan language, which was deciphered by scholars only in recent years.

We have many thousands of surviving texts and inscriptions, regarding religious ceremonies, sacrifices and divination, death and the hereafter. But no popular literature and few records of everyday life.

The Sarcofago dei coniugi, 6th Century BC (Villa Giulia Museum, Rome)

In fact, our response to the Etruscans is overwhelmingly aesthetic and more than a little romantic.

They look so wonderfully mysterious with their archaic smiles, their aristocratic poise and their seeming indifference to the passage of time.

The Sarcophagus of the Married Couple on an Italian postage stamp from 2006.

(2) ETRUSCAN CITY OF THE DEAD

Houses for the Living...

Houses for the Dead...

A grand refuge for the afterlife on a seemingly residential street. (Photo Lyle Goldberg)
Inside the tumulus of the noble Matuna family, 6th Century BC.
For use in the great hereafter, the Matuna tomb is lavishly decorated with the appurtenances of aristocratic life (renderings by A.N. Des Vergers, Les Etrusques, Paris 1862)

"Crossing the threshold of the cemetery, each of them [the Etruscans of Cerveteri] possessed a second house."

"Inside this house, a resting place was already prepared. And soon, they would be lying down alongside their forefathers."

"Eternity, therefore, was not a vague illusion. Nor a mere fairy tale. Nor an insubstantial promise by their priests."

Giorgio Bassani, The Garden of the Finzi Continis

(Translation: Isabel Quigley)

Terracotta sarcophagus lids from Cerveteri, in the Villa Giulia Museum in Rome.

These not-quite-vanished people, who were they anyway? We hear that Etruscan society was rigidly hierarchical —and this is the seeming proof.

Great museums are dominated by such elegant and self-assured individuals, smiling at us from frescoes and sarcophagus lids, re-enacting the pleasures of their privileged lives.

A row of substantial tumuli from around the 6th Century BC. These imitated the traditional form of round  thatched huts. (Photo Lyle Goldberg)

All Etruscans were not created equal, however, nor were all phases of Etruscan history.

Burials took place at Cerveteri over a span of some five hundred years, from the 9th through the 3rd Centuries BC.

There were rich and poor, times of power and prosperity, times of crisis and decline. 

A series of tumuli (from circa 600-500 BC) facing rectilinear chamber tombs (circa 500-300 BC). (Photo Lyle Goldberg)

How about this elegiac scene? It is easy to read it as an abandoned city in all its complexity, with palaces across the street from more modest row-houses.

But what are we really looking at? Diminishing resources or the increasing urbanization of Etruscan life, mirrored by an evolution in burial customs?

Two tumuli at the upper left; in the center, a single entombment hewn in the living rock (Photo Lyle Goldberg)

Archeology is seldom simple, in Cerveteri or any place else.

Minimal hole-in-the-rock sepulchers occurred early (back in the 9th Century) then again later, often encroaching on nobler monuments of the past.

As for the humblest layings-to-rest, they must have numbered in the countless thousands over the centuries—but where and how? Maybe meager burials in outlying fields?

The entrance to a tomb in Cerveteri, outside looking in. (Photo Lyle Goldberg)
The entrance to a tomb in Cerveteri, inside looking out. (Photo Lyle Goldberg)

As for Giorgio Bassani, he tells us exactly what he is doing.

Speaking through Giannina, he dissolves the border between life and death, embracing memory on his own ambiguous terms.

“Papa,”Giannina asked, “why are old tombs less gloomy than new ones?”

“Well, of course people who’ve just died are nearer to us, so we love them more,” he said.

“You see, the Etruscans have been dead for such ages”—and again he was telling a fairy-tale—“that it’s as if they’d never lived, as if they’d always been dead.”

“But, now you’ve said that,” she said gently, “you’ve made me think that the Etruscans did actually live, you know, and I love them as much as everyone else.”

Giorgio Bassani, The Garden of the Finzi-Contini

(Translation: Isabel Quigley)

In Cerveteri, "The Day of Memory" (La Giornata della Memoria) commemorating the Holocaust.

NOTE:

Thanks to LAMAGE Arte per Bambini for the image at the top of this post.

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